The first step when levelling a bowling green is to perform a survey. This is how I survey a bowling green:

1. Set up rotary laser level in the north-western corner of the green
2. Turn the laser on and wait for it to level off and start spinning
3. Turn on my survey machine
4. Open the Lefebure NTRIP Client app on my phone and start sending RTK correction data to my survey machine over Bluetooth
5. When a GPS fix has been obtained, the machine will ask me if I'd like to delete any saved data. I select "Yes"
6. I orient the survey machine so that the laser receiver can see the rotary laser level
7. The survey machine then automatically calibrates itself by finding the laser beam using the laser receiver
8. Once calibrated, I hold down the level and the machine then automatically takes a reading every 1.2 seconds as it's wheeled up and down the green. I check the levels on the pegs, rink numbers and ditches over the entire green
9. The machine records latitude, longitude and height
10. Once finished, I plug my laptop into the survey machine and download the data via serial connection at 9600 baud rate
11. I first use the data to calculate the highest-to-lowest range and then the most-of-the-green-within range (the most-of-the-green-within range is calculated by assuming the data has a normal distribution. The range is calculated by doubling the standard deviation). I also create a histogram showing the frequency of the data (which usually looks like a bell curve).
12. I then create the contour map to view where the high and low areas are
13. For clubs which are trying to diagnoise specific issues, I will use turf-safe spray paint to write the green levels on the green surface
14. Lastly, I create the report by entering in the new data from the current survey and any historical data from previous surveys

Using the data collected, I check:

• Highest-to-lowest range
• Most-of-the-green-within range
• Have these numbers changed much compared to any previous surveys?
• Which way the contour lines run, distance between contour lines and height difference between contour lines
• Where are the low and high areas, are they near the ditches?
• Do the ditch rinks slope away?
• What is the green health like? Are the low areas less healthy than the high areas?
• How much organic build-up is there in the high areas?
• How has the green been playing? Is it better or worse than previous seasons?

Laser Topdressing is the technique I use for raising only to lowest parts of the green. This is how I Laser Topdress a green:

1. I first perform a survey of the green to generate a contour map
2. From the contour map, I select the level I'd like to topdress below
3. I load a new can of turf-safe paint into the spray paint can holder on the front of my survey machine (after shaking well)
4. I program the survey machine to only mark the areas of the green below the selected contour level
5. The machine is wheeled up and down the green at 1m spacings. The machine automatically marks the green when a low area is detected
6. Soil is then used to cover the marked areas of the green to a depth of about 3-4mm (3-4mm is usually obtained when the grass tips are barely visible
7. The soil is initially spread using brooms
8. Next, I use my 4m wheeled steel screed to start flattening the surface finish. I usually start north-south, then go east-west, and finally finish north-south. This is done to fill any valleys running north-south. The wheels on the screen stop the edges from digging in but I very slight bow in screed allows the middle 50% of the screen to contact the soil
9. There will usually be areas which require additional soil to be levelled off. These areas will typically have an additional 2-3mm of soil added.
10. Finally, I use my 2m carpet screen to remove any wheel and foot marks by first travelling north-south and then east-west. It also helps to work the soil into the grass. This screed is made from a piece of timber wrapped in carpet.

Laser Scarifying is the technique I use for lowering the highest areas of the green. This is how I Laser Scarify a green:

1. I first perform a survey of the green to generate a contour map
2. From the contour map, I select the level I'd like to scarify above
3. I load a new can of turf-safe paint into the spray paint can holder on the front of my survey machine (after shaking well)
4. I program the survey machine to only mark the areas of the green above the selected contour level
5. The machine is wheeled up and down the green at 1m spacings. The machine automatically marks the green when a high area is detected
6. My laser scarifier is then moved onto the green. The laser receiver on the machine is adjusted so that the blades only come down when it's on a part of the green with painted marks.
7. I usually start scarifying in the east-west direction. I'll go over all the high areas once and then change directions. Each time the scarifier passes over an area it removes approximately 0.5mm. This means I need to go over a 10mm high area up to 20 times to bring it down to the required level. Each time I go over the high area, the laser receiver checks the height of the green.
8. Once the required level is reached, the blades are raised so they are level with the front and rear rollers. I then go over all the laser scarified areas three ways to maximise smoothness
9. The last job is for the greenkeeper to mow the scarified areas to remove any straggly organic matter

I use the traditional laser levelling technique for greens when need maximum improvement. This is how I perform traditional laser levelling:

1. First I survey the green and laser scarify down the highest areas. This makes laser levelling far easier as the low areas don't need to be raised up to the highest part of the green
2. The greenkeeper and volunteers then spread 8-15T of soil over the entire green
3. I set up my rotary laser level in the corner of the green and turn it on
4. I use a John Deere L102 manual ride-on mower to pull the levelling implements
5. The first implement is a 1.8m screed with rubber fingers. These fingers crudely spread the soil but more importantly they work the soil into the turf and help the grass blades to "stand up". I use a diagonal pattern to evenly spread the soil out
6. I then use my laser controlled grader blade to move the soil to the low areas and flatten it off. Initially I set the blade to roughly the highest point of the green. This conservative setting allows the soil on only the highest parts of the green to be moved to the lower areas. An "up-and-back" loop pattern is used north-south and east-west at a brisk walking pace
7. Once this has been achieved, the grader blade is dropped 2mm and the process is conducted again. This is continued until soil is mostly scraped away from the high areas and the low areas have been filled up and flattened
8. On the final passes, a 2m wide roller is connected in tandem the grader blade to maximise smoothness and to start consolidating the loose soil. The same pattern is used but this time at a very slow walking pace